This is a free sewing pattern for a gentleman-style tailored collar jacket, ideal for formal costumes, cosplay, and stage outfits. The pattern is simplified with reduced lining and facings, making it easier than a standard tailored jacket, but it still requires intermediate sewing skills.
Because this is designed for costume use, we recommend adjusting the lining and internal structure if you are making an everyday wear jacket. The base shape can be modified to suit your desired design.
The sleeves are authentic two-piece tailored sleeves with curved seams, using easing to create a smooth rounded shape. This step requires careful sewing and precision. Dart placements differ from standard jackets, so please follow the included markings closely.
The pattern includes a built-in seam allowance (S/A). After printing, align the joining lines, cut out the pieces, and start sewing immediately.
(1) Apply fusible interfacing to all required parts, then sew all darts and press them in the correct direction with an iron.
(2) Attach the dummy pocket and flap to the designated positions.
*If you plan to make functional pockets, prepare and sew the pocket pieces at this stage.
(3) Sew the outer fabric, facing, and lining together to form the basic structure, then attach the collar pieces to each section.
*Make small clips at tight curved areas around the collar and lining seams to allow the fabric to turn smoothly.
(4) Sew all parts together except for the hem, then turn the garment right side out.
*Pre-press the hem line with an iron to make the finishing process easier.
(5) Attach the sleeves to the body.
*Sleeve easing is required. The sleeves cannot be attached correctly without easing stitches.
(6) Close the hem by hand-stitching.
*Areas that tend to shift during sewing can be temporarily secured with basting stitches to achieve a cleaner finished line.
(7) Make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons.
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