This is a free sewing pattern for a military-style jacket with a hidden zipper placket. The front fastening is designed so that the zipper is concealed under an overlapping flap, giving the jacket a clean, structured look.
The collar features a slightly angled band, making it ideal for wearing open for a casual style. All pockets are designed with tucks (pleats) for added depth and a functional, utilitarian appearance. You can customize the design by removing the left chest pocket and adding a patch or embroidery for a more personalized touch.
This pattern is best suited for intermediate to advanced sewists, as it involves multiple construction steps and precise finishing. Recommended fabrics include medium-weight cotton twill, canvas, or light wool blends for spring or autumn wear.
Perfect as a stylish outerwear piece for casual outings, cosplay costumes, or themed uniforms. After printing, align the sheets along the join lines, tape or glue them together, and cut out the pieces. Seam allowances (S/A) are already included, so you can use the pattern as is.
The production process is explained with translation software.
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(1) Make "flap", "pocket", and "Epaulette" first.
* Make the buttonholes for this "flap" and "Epaulette" first.
(2) Serging the shoulders and sides of the "Front Body" and "Back Body".
(3) Serging "Pocket" on "Front Body", sandwich "flap" between "Front Top Body" and "Front Bottom Body" and sew them together, Serging the seam allowance.
* Iron the seam allowance up and stitch it in place.
(4) Serging the seam allowance after sewing "Back Top Body" and "Back Bottom Body" together, iron the seam allowance downwards, and stitch them together.
(5) Sew the shoulders and sides of the "Front Body" and "Back Body" together.
(6) Iron on fusible interlining to "Collar", "Facing" and "Cuffs".
(7) Serging the outside of "Facing" and hem.
(8) Fold the "Front piece" at the fold line, sew the top and bottom together, turn it inside out and stitch it into shape.
(9) Stitch the zipper with "Facing" while clipping the zipper.
* On the right front side, insert the "Front piece" and sew it together.
* Fold the hem in an L-shape to make a neat hem.
(10) Sew the "Collar" to the "Body" while tucking in the "Collar".
(11) Fold up the hem of "Body" and tap it with a sewing machine.
(12) Serging the sides of "Sleeve", sewing them together and press seam allowances open with an iron.
(13) Sew the sides of the "Cuffs" together, fold and tuck the seam allowance in 0.5 inch.
(14) Sew "Cuffs" to the hem of "Sleeve".
(15) Serging armholes by inserting and sewing "Epaulette" when attaching "Sleeve" to "Body".
(16) Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.
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