This is a free sewing pattern and tutorial for a military-style jacket with a hidden zipper placket. The zipper is covered by an overlapping front flap, creating a clean and structured front finish.
The collar is an angled band collar, designed to look best when worn open. All pockets are tuck (pleat) pockets that add depth and a classic utility style. If you prefer a simpler look, you can remove the left chest pocket and replace it with a patch or embroidery for a cute custom detail.
This pattern is not recommended for complete beginners. It is best suited for sewists with some basic garment-making experience, because it requires careful construction and neat finishing.
Try making it as a light jacket for spring outings. After printing, align the sheets along the join lines, assemble them, and cut out the pattern pieces. Seam allowances are already included, so you can use the pattern as-is.
(1) Prepare the flap, pockets, and epaulettes in advance.
*Make the buttonholes for the flap and epaulettes at this stage.
(2) Finish the raw edges of the shoulder and side seams on both the upper and lower front and back body pieces.
How to Serge / Overlock (sewing machine & overlock sewing machine)
(3) Attach the pockets to the front body. When joining the upper and lower front body pieces, sandwich the flap between them and finish the seam allowance.
*After sewing, press the seam allowance upward and secure it with topstitching.
(4) Sew the upper and lower back body pieces together, finish the seam allowance, press it downward, and secure with stitching.
(5) Sew the shoulder and side seams of the front and back body pieces together.
(6) Apply fusible interlining to the collar, facing, and cuffs.
(7) Finish the outer edge of the facing and the hem.
(8) Sew the upper and lower parts of the front placket separately, turn them right side out, and shape them with topstitching.
(9) Sew the zipper while sandwiching it with the facing.
*On the right front side, insert the front placket together with the zipper and sew.
*Folding the hem into an L-shape will help create a clean hem finish.
(10) Attach the collar to the body while sandwiching the collar between the layers.
(11) Fold up the hem of the body and sew it with a sewing machine.
(12) Finish the raw edges of the sleeve side seams, sew them together, and press the seam allowances open.
(13) Sew the side seams of the cuffs, fold them, and turn the seam allowance inward by 0.5 inch to prepare for attachment.
(14) Attach the cuffs to the sleeve hems by sandwiching them in place and sewing.
(15) When attaching the sleeves to the body, insert the epaulettes at the shoulder seam and finish the armholes.
(16) Make the remaining buttonholes and sew on the buttons.
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Children's-100
shoulder width27cm bust62.5cm waist61.5cm length41.5cm 9sheets of A4 size (or legal size)
Children's-4
bust24.6in waist24.2in length16.3in shoulder width10.6in 9sheets of letter size
Children's-120
shoulder width31cm bust70cm waist68.5cm length46cm 11sheets of A4 size (or legal size)
Children's-8
bust27.6in waist27in length18.1in shoulder width12.2in 11sheets of letter size
Children's-140
shoulder width35cm bust81.5cm waist80cm length54.5cm 13sheets of A4 size (or legal size)
Children's-10
bust32.1in waist31.5in length21.5in shoulder width13.8in 15sheets of letter size
Ladies'-S
shoulder width40.5cm bust90cm waist88.5cm length58.5cm 16sheets of A4 size (or legal size)
Ladies'-S
bust35.4in waist34.8in length23in shoulder width15.9in 17sheets of letter size
Ladies'-M
shoulder width41.5cm bust98cm waist94cm length60cm 18sheets of A4 size (or legal size)
Ladies'-M
bust38.6in waist37in length23.6in shoulder width16.3in 18sheets of letter size
Ladies'-L
shoulder width42.5cm bust106cm waist104.5cm length61cm 19sheets of A4 size (or legal size)
Ladies'-L
bust41.7in waist41.1in lengthi24n shoulder width16.7in 19sheets of letter size
Ladies'-LL
shoulder width43.5cm bust112cm waist110cm length62.5cm 19sheets of A4 size (or legal size)
Ladies'-LL
bust44.1in waist43.3in length24.6in shoulder width17.1in 21sheets of letter size
Men's-S
shoulder width44.5cm bust94cm waist92cm length64cm 18sheets of A4 size (or legal size)
Men's-S
bust37in waist36.2in length25.2in shoulder width17.5in 19sheets of letter size
Men's-M
shoulder width45.5cm bust102cm waist100cm length69cm 21sheets of A4 size (or legal size)
Men's-M
bust40.2in waist39.4in length27.2in shoulder width17.9in 22sheets of letter size
Men's-L
shoulder width46.5cm bust111cm waist109cm length73.5cm 23sheets of A4 size (or legal size)
Men's-L
bust43.7in waist42.9in length28.9in shoulder width18.3in 24sheets of letter size
Men's-LL
shoulder width47.5cm bust117cm waist115cm length78.5cm 25sheets of A4 size (or legal size)
Men's-LL
bust46.1in waist45.3in length30.9in shoulder width18.7in 26sheets of letter size
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