This is a sewing pattern and tutorial for a flat collar jacket.
This pattern was made from a requested design.
The design was made as simple as possible. It has no darts, and the body line is adjusted only with the Back Bodice line.
The Flat Collar is made with a simple structure. It is placed between the Bodice and Facing, and then sewn in place.
If you wear a shirt with a collar under this jacket, make the jacket without the Flat Collar.
Snap buttons may feel difficult until you get used to them, but they are easy to attach once you understand the method.
This jacket has a simple line, so it is also suitable as a base pattern.
After printing, align the pages along the guide lines, paste them together, and cut out the pattern pieces. Seam allowances are included, so you can use the pattern as-is.
*Please press all sewn seams with an iron.
*This costume does not include a lining.
*If a lining is needed, use the Facing lines on each Bodice piece. Add seam allowance to those lines and make the lining pattern.
(1) Apply fusible interfacing to the Front Facing, Back Facing, Flat Collar, and half of each Cuff.
(2) Sew the Front Facing and Back Facing together. Press the seam allowances open, and finish the outer edge.
How to Serge/overlock (sewing machine & overlock sewing machine)
(3) Sew the Flat Collar pieces together. Turn the Collar right side out, and shape it with an iron.
(4) Finish the shoulder and side edges of the Front Bodice, the shoulder, side, and center back edges of the Back Bodice, and both side edges of the Sleeves.
(5) Sew the center back seam of the Back Bodice. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams of the Bodice. Press the seam allowances open.
(6) Sew the center back seam of the Decorative Hem. Press the seam allowances open.
(7) Fold the upper seam allowance of the Decorative Hem with an iron to shape it. Then stitch the Decorative Hem to the Bodice.
(8) Finish the hem edge of the Bodice. Place the Flat Collar between the Bodice and Facing, and sew them together.
(9) Sew the Sleeves together. Press the seam allowances open.
(10) Sew the Cuffs. Shape them with an iron so they can be folded around the sleeve edge. Stitch the Cuffs to the Sleeves.
How to sew sleeves and sleeve cuffs
(11) Attach the Sleeves to the Bodice, and finish the armhole edges.
(12) Make buttonholes on the Bodice and attach the buttons.
*Gold snap buttons are easier to attach because buttonholes are not needed. Please see the supplies section on the site for details.