This is a free sewing pattern and tutorial for simplified rider hakama (split-leg hakama pants) designed for cosplay costumes.
Unlike skirt-style hakama, rider hakama have separated legs so they can be worn while riding a horse. This pattern is not a traditional or formal hakama pattern, but rather a simplified version that looks like hakama while being much easier to sew.
It is intended for costume use only and is not suitable for making authentic ceremonial hakama. However, it works perfectly for cosplay and stage costumes.
The construction is simple, using hook-and-loop (Velcro) closures, making it beginner-friendly. The length is drafted slightly shorter, so adjust the pattern length to match your desired style before sewing.
Once printed, cut along the join lines. The pattern already includes seam allowances, so it is ready to use without adding extra margins.
The production process is explained with translation software.
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(1) Fold in the side 3fold part first.
* Fold the 3-fold side lines inward and sew them together with a sewing machine.
(2) Serge/overlock the sides, center and hem first.
* It is easier to shape the "Mountain fold" and "Valley fold" parts first.
(3) Sew the inseam and sides of the "Front Body" and "Back Body" together to form a tube, then fold up the hem 0.5 inch (≈1cm) and sew with a sewing machine.
(4) Iron the "Mountain fold" and "Valley fold" and settle the "Valley fold" by stitching.
* If the material is difficult to shape with just the folds, either stitch the mountain fold as well, or iron adhesive thread into the material to settle the folds.
(5) Stitch the fusible interlining on one half of the "Koshiita", fold it in half, sew the sides together, turn it inside out, and stitch around the perimeter.
(6) Stitch the crotch.
(7) Stitch the hakama body and the "Koshiita" between the "waistband" and the "Koshiita" and attach the Velcro.
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