This is the Napoleon Jacket II sewing pattern with a front flap closure, created based on customer requests. The front flap can also be attached to the body to change the design into an open-front style.
The pattern is easy to modify to match your image, so it can be used as a base pattern for your project. If you would like to add lining, facing lines are included, so you can use them to draft your own lining pattern.
After printing, align and tape the pages together along the assembly lines, then cut out the pattern pieces. Seam allowances are already included, so you can use the pattern as it is.
(1) Apply fusible interfacing with an iron to the "Collar", "Collar Stand", "Cuffs", "Front and Back Facing", and one piece of "Front Panel".
(2) Sew the "Epaulette", turn it right side out, shape it with topstitching, and make buttonholes so it can be inserted between the seams.
(3) Sew the "Collar", turn it right side out, shape it with an iron, and secure the shape with topstitching.
* When turning right side out, clip the seam allowance where the fabric pulls. Trim sharp corners, leaving 1–2 mm of seam allowance.
(4) Fold the seam allowance of the "Collar Stand" inward by 1 cm in advance and press with an iron. Sew the sides, turn right side out, insert the "Collar", sew in place, and topstitch.
(5) Sew the "Facing" pieces together, press the seam allowances open with an iron, and finish the raw edges.
(6) Finish the raw edges of the underarm seams of the "Sleeves", sew them together, and press the seam allowances open.
(7) Press the folding line on the "Cuffs" in advance to make them easier to attach. Sew the sides, turn right side out, and attach them to the sleeves.
(8) Sew the darts on the "Back Body" and press the seam allowances inward.
(9) Finish the raw edges of the shoulder and side seams of the "Front and Back Body", and also the side seams of the side body pieces.
(10) Sew the side seams of the body and connect all body pieces with topstitching. Finally, sew the shoulders and topstitch.
(11) Align the "Collar" at the collar attachment point on the body, and attach the "Facing" to the body while sandwiching the collar between them.
(12) Turn the "Facing" to the inside and topstitch around the entire edge to shape the garment.
* When turning right side out, clip the seam allowance where the fabric pulls.
(13) Attach the buttons at the marked button positions.
(14) Attach the sleeves while sandwiching the shoulder strap between the seams, and finish the armholes.
(15) Attach the spring hook at the marked position.
(16) Place the two "Front Panel" pieces together, baste around the edges, then finish the edges with bias binding.
(17) Make buttonholes at each marked buttonhole position.
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