Built-Up Neck Jacket Sewing Patterns | DRCOS Patterns & How To Make

This is a sewing pattern for a built-up neck jacket with an open chest design.

The difficulty level is very high, so this pattern is recommended for people with some sewing experience.

The shape of the pattern is very special, but it can be useful as a base pattern for costumes with an open chest area.

The shoulder area uses a three-dimensional sleeve design, so it is also useful for cosplay costume making.

Only simple sewing instructions are included in the pattern.

After printing, align the pages along the guide lines, paste them together, and cut out the pattern pieces. Seam allowances are included, so you can use the pattern as-is.

*Please press all sewn seams with an iron.

*When using fabric with about the same thickness as regular twill, the finished shape will be cleaner if you use fabric of a similar thickness on the wrong side of the body. These sewing steps are for making the garment with the same fabric used as the lining.

(1) Apply fusible interfacing to the Neck. Apply cotton fusible interfacing to the Upper Sleeve and Middle Sleeve.

(2) Sew the darts on the Upper Sleeve. Press the seam allowances downward with an iron.

*The shape will be cleaner if you hold the dart seam allowances in place with stitching.

(3) Finish only the armhole edges of the Body. Finish all raw edges around the Upper Sleeve and Middle Sleeve.

(4) Sew the sewing lines of the two Chest Cloth pieces together. Turn them right side out and shape them with an iron.

*Before turning, clip the marked clipping positions.

(5) Baste the Chest Cloth at the marked basting positions.

(6) Clip the marked clipping positions on the Front Cloth. Fold the fold lines with an iron.

(7) Sandwich the Chest Cloth between the two Front Cloth pieces and stitch it in place. Then baste the Front Cloth.

(8) Sew the Back Bodice and Side Back Bodice together. Press the seam allowances open with an iron. Do this for both the outer fabric and the lining.

*Clip the seam allowance where the fabric pulls, so the seam will lie flat.

*If you want a cleaner line, topstitch the opened seam allowances.

(9) Sew the shoulder seams of the Front Bodice and Back Bodice together. Press the seam allowances open with an iron. Do this for both the outer fabric and the lining.

(10) Sew the Neck to the neckline of the Body. Press the seam allowances open with an iron. Do this for both the outer fabric and the lining.

(11) Sew only the marked sewing range at the ends of the Body, Upper Sleeve, and Middle Sleeve. Press the seam allowances open with an iron. Do this for both the outer fabric and the lining.

(12) Sew bias tape to the double-fold bias positions on the Sleeve and Body.

*Keep the seam allowances open when you sew the bias tape.

(13) Clip the marked clipping positions on the Front Bodice. Fold them with an iron so the Chest Cloth can be inserted. Do this for both the outer fabric and the lining.

(14) Sandwich the Chest Cloth between the two Front Bodice pieces and stitch it in place.

(15) Sew bias tape to the front edge bias position of the Front Bodice.

(16) Finish the raw edges of the under side and upper side of the Lower Sleeve. Sew the under side of the Lower Sleeve and press the seam allowance open with an iron.

(17) Sew edging bias tape to the sleeve opening of the Lower Sleeve.

(18) Sew the side seam of the Middle Sleeve to make it into a ring. Press the seam allowance open with an iron, then attach the Lower Sleeve.

(19) Sew the side seam of the Upper Sleeve to make it into a ring. Press the seam allowance open with an iron, then attach the Middle Sleeve.

*If you want a cleaner shoulder line, keep the seam allowance between the Upper Sleeve and Middle Sleeve opened with hand sewing or a similar method.

(20) Sew the side seams of the Front Bodice and Back Bodice together. Press the seam allowances open with an iron. Do this for both the outer fabric and the lining.

*Clip the seam allowance where the fabric pulls, so the seam will lie flat.

(21) Apply stay tape to the center back of the Back Bodice lining.

(22) Fold the center back seam allowances of the Back Bodice with an iron so the open zipper can be inserted. Do this for both the outer fabric and the lining.

(23) Sandwich the open zipper between the two Back Bodice pieces and sew it in place.

(24) Sew the remaining parts of the armholes.

(25) Sew edging bias tape around the neckline and hem.

(26) Sew buttons at the button positions and tie the cords.

*If you use studs instead of buttons, attach them before sandwiching the Chest Cloth.

If you cannot see the SHOP due to 403 error

Price: ¥900 (JPY)
Approx. USD — / EUR — (for reference)

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