How to Make a Front Opening
DRCOS Patterns
& How To Make

How to Make a Front Opening

How to make a costume front opening with sewing instructions

We will make the front opening that is often seen on cut-and-sew clothing and blouses.

Prepare two pieces of cloth for the Front Fly and two pieces of fusible interlining.

Preparing cloth and fusible interlining for a front opening

First, apply the fusible interlining symmetrically to the back side of the Front Fly.

The black numbers show the seam allowance dimensions.

Fusible interlining applied to the back of the Front Fly

After attaching the fusible interlining, sew the Front Fly fabric to the body.

Align the blue and yellow dotted lines with each other, and fasten firmly with marking pins to prevent misalignment.

Aligning and pinning the front fly fabric to the body

Once pinned, sew, but leave a 1.5 cm seam allowance open.

Sewing the front fly while leaving a 1.5 cm seam allowance open

The seam allowance width is 1 cm. Sew along the fusible interlining.

Sewing along the fusible interlining with 1 cm seam allowance

Always make a reverse stitch at the beginning and end of sewing.

Back side of the front bodice showing stitched seams

This is the back side of the front bodice. After checking for misalignment, remove the basting threads.

Removing basting threads from the front opening

Fold over the seam allowance at the seams and Front Fly edge by 1 cm using an iron.

Folding seam allowances of the front fly with an iron

On the back side of the body, draw a line as shown in red, then make a cut along it.

Making an incision along the red guideline on the fabric

The incision is made. This is what it looks like from the front side.

Front side view after making the incision

Once the incision is made, iron the Front Fly fabric to create the shape.

Ironing the front fly fabric after making the incision

The above image is the back side. Iron so the seams are covered.

Back side with ironed seams covered by the front fly

Process the seam allowance portion (bottom side) of the Front Fly. Place right sides together and fasten with a marking pin.

Pinning the front fly right sides together

Fasten both left and right front fly with marking pins.

Both sides of the front fly pinned in place

The left Front Fly overlaps the bottom side. Sew this one with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Sewing the left front fly with 1 cm seam allowance

Sew the underside of the Front Fly together with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving 5 mm as shown.

Front fly underside sewn with 1 cm seam allowance leaving 5 mm

Cut the unneeded seam allowance before turning inside out.

Cutting seam allowance before turning the front fly inside out

Turned over. The Front Fly extends 5 mm beyond the sew stop.

Turned over front fly showing 5 mm extension

The right Front Fly is sewn at the same stop position with a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

Sewing the right front fly with 1.5 cm seam allowance

Cut the seam allowance that will interfere before turning this side as well.

Cutting excess seam allowance before turning the right front fly

The right Front Fly is neatly finished at the sewing end.

Neatly finished right front fly after sewing

When the hem of the Front Fly is neatly finished, sew the Front Fly from the front side with a sewing machine.

Sew both right and left sides with edge stitching.

Edge stitching the front fly from the front side

Sew the left Front Fly tightly until just before the end and make a reverse stitch.

Left front fly sewn tightly with reverse stitch at the end

Sew the right Front Fly to 1 cm before the end. Make a reverse stitch at the beginning, but none at the end.

Right front fly sewn to 1 cm before the end

Fasten the triangle created by the incision to the top of the left Front Fly with a marking pin.

Fastening the incision triangle to the left front fly

Fasten the triangles and the Front Fly with marking pins so they do not shift. Sew along the white dotted line with a sewing machine.

Sewing along the white dotted line to secure the triangle

Sew along the yellow dotted line.

Stitching where the two front fly pieces are joined

This is the part where the two Front Fly pieces are joined, so sew them securely.

At this time, make sure the edge stitching line is properly sewn.

Checking edge stitching of the joined front fly pieces

Back and front side view of the completed stitching

Check both the right and wrong sides of the body to ensure the stitching line is not visible.

Confirming invisible seam finish on front and back

The front opening is now complete!

It's not very difficult, and once learned, it can also be applied to shirt cuff openings.

It’s worth remembering!

Thanks for your hard work!

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