How to Make Gathers Using a Sewing Machine
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Step-by-Step Guide: How to Make Gathers with a Sewing Machine

How to make gathers using a sewing machine

An overlock machine has a convenient gathering attachment, but you can also easily make gathers with a regular straight stitch sewing machine!

Sewing gathers using a sewing machine with straight stitch

First, sew 7mm from the edge of the fabric where you want the gathers.

At this point, set the upper thread tension on the sewing machine to a low setting. Since the gathers are created by pulling the bobbin thread, loosening the upper thread tension makes it easier to pull.

Set the stitch length to about 3.5 to 4 mm.

Adjusting thread tension for sewing gathers

For clarity, I used different colors for the upper and bobbin threads. The green thread is the bobbin thread.

Sewing second gathering stitch 3mm below the first line

Sew another line 3mm below the first one. Having two lines makes the gathers neater and more stable.

Bobbin thread color changed for clarity when sewing gathers

The yellow thread here is the bobbin thread.

Checking the back side after sewing gathering stitches

Now that the gathering stitches are in place, check the wrong side of the fabric.

Because the upper thread tension was loosened, some of the top thread shows on the back. This is fine, as it allows you to pull the bobbin thread smoothly.

Pulling only the bobbin thread to make gathers

Be sure to pull only the bobbin thread, not the upper thread. Pull both bobbin threads together.

If you accidentally pull the upper thread, the seam will tighten and you won’t be able to pull the bobbin thread.

So be careful not to pull the UPPER THREAD!

Evenly pulling bobbin threads from both sides to form gathers

Pull the bobbin threads from both ends to create even gathers.

Close-up of two sewing lines creating stable gathers

Here’s a close-up. Two rows of stitching make the gathers more secure.

Lightly ironing gathered fabric to keep it flat

Gathered areas can look puffy and uneven, so lightly press them with an iron to settle the fabric.

Preparing seam allowance of 1.5cm for gathers sewn as a belt

For this sample, I’ll sew the gathered fabric as if it were a belt. The seam allowance for the gathered area is 1.5 cm.

If your seam allowance is 1 cm, sew the first gathering line 3 mm from the fabric edge.

Using marking pins to secure thick gathered fabric for sewing

Gathering makes the fabric much thicker. When sewing belts, cuffs, and similar pieces, use plenty of marking pins to secure the fabric.

While sewing, take care that the weight of the gathered fabric doesn’t pull on the stitches.

Sewing a belt on gathered fabric

The belt is now sewn on.

Close-up showing neatly sewn gathers

Here’s a close-up showing the neat gathers. This concludes how to make gathers using a sewing machine.

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