How to sew sleeves and sleeve cuffs
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I want to attach cuffs to the sleeves...but pincer stitching is difficult and...cumbersome!
Here is a simple and beautiful way to attach sleeves and cuffs for those who want to do so.
First, let's start with the parts: sleeves (white fabric), cuffs (black fabric) and fusible interlining. This time, we decided to apply only half of the "Cuff" because the fabric is solid. If the fabric is too thin, you may need to apply it to the front as well, or use a thicker fusible interlining.
First, iron on the fusible interlining to the cuffs. The production process is shown for one sleeve only, but please make sure to proceed symmetrically because it is a sleeve. In rare cases, beginners make sleeves with the same direction... Sleeves are symmetrical!
Here is a secret item! Please prepare this! What is this? You may wonder, It is just a piece of cardboard with lines drawn with a pen in 1 cm (0.5 inch), 2 cm (1 inch), and 3 cm (1.5 inch).
This cardboard is very useful for ironing while adjusting to the 1 cm (0.5 inch) line. It is quite useful when folding the hem of a skirt at 2 cm (1 in.) or when folding the seam allowance first.
I fold in the edge 1cm (0.5 inch ≈1cm) and the middle to make it easy to pinch When folding in half, be sure to shift the fusible interlining side (the one that will be the lining) by 1mm. By doing this, when sewing from the front, the back side can also be sewn tightly.
When you have finished shaping, stop the sides with a marking pin and sew the sides together with a sewing machine to make a loop. Do not forget to reverse stitch!
I finished sewing. The reason the thread is white is for clarity. If you use black fabric, please use black thread.
Press seam allowances open with an iron on a sleeve ironing board
Once the seam allowance is split open, the thickness of the seam allowance is reduced. If you are worried that this process will be troublesome or that the seam allowance will come undone after cutting, you can skip it. Cutting this part of the cuff will make it more comfortable to touch.
When cutting, be careful not to cut too deeply.
Finish it so that the back side sticks out about 1 mm like this. This completes the preparation of the cuffs. The next step is to make the sleeves.
First, Serge/overlock both sides of the sleeves. overlock sewing machine is used for serging in the photo, but a regular sewing machine can also be used for serging. Please refer to "How to Serge/overlock (Sewing Machine/Lock Sewing Machine)" for the Serge/overlock procedure.
Here's the key! After Serge/overlocking the fabric, iron the fabric from the back side once before sewing it together. Why? You may wonder why, Serge/overlocked fabrics are saggy or bumpy at the edges, and if you sew them together without ironing, they are difficult to sew and cannot be sewn neatly. But if you iron the edges before sewing, it becomes much easier to sew!
Fasten the sides with marking pins and sew them together with a sewing machine.
After sewing the sleeves together, iron them again on the sleeve ironing board The seam allowance is neatly split open with an iron. After finishing ironing, the sleeves are turned inside out and face up.
Fold the fabric in half from the seam allowance and make a notch mark on the opposite side with a marking pin. The fabric is so short that it can be stitched without a notch mark, but if you are not familiar with this method, it is easier to make a notch mark here. Attach the marking pins as shown in the photo, paying attention to the direction in which the marking pins of the notch mark are to be fixed.
First, fasten one round with a marking pin. Then, fold up the "Cuff".
While pulling out the marking pin that has just been fastened, fasten and secure the folded up cuff with the marking pin.
Sew one round with a sewing machine and you're done!
The back side also finishes nicely like this. The key is to shape and shift the cuffs first when making them!
Stitching in embellishments is another way to make it pretty! This completes the easy sleeve & cuffs.