Suikan Sewing Patterns | DRCOS Patterns & How To Make

Comments are made using translation software.

Here is the pattern and instructions for making a SUIKAN (KARIGINU), which aristocrats wore during Japan's Heian period.

It might lean more towards KARIGINU, but since decorative cords were added when making it, I'm labeling it as SUIKAN.

Since it's not a round-neck pattern, I believe it's not a SUIKAN.

Since it's a pattern designed for cosplay costumes with emphasized lines, I think it's neither one formally.

It's a pattern with open shoulders design.

The slightly higher difficulty level comes from the final stitching process, where you need to sew by pulling from the gap.

While the shape itself is simple, it's also possible to simplify the construction process.

After printing, paste it according to the pasting line,Cut and use.

The pattern has a seam allowance, so it can be used as is.

The production process is explained with translation software.

* There are various methods for sewing a SUIKAN, so please make it in a way that is easy for you.

* The production process progresses simultaneously for both the right side and the lining. Since the lining has the same shape, it's like making two pieces and sewing them together.

(1) Attach fusible interlining to the "Collar" and "Body" armhole parts of the lining.

(2) Sew the "Extension parts" onto the left "Front bodice" (the lining is reversed). Press open the seam allowance with an iron.

(3) Sew the Back center line and side of the "Body" together. Press open the seam allowance with an iron.

(4) Sew the "Collar" in a semicircular shape with right sides together, then turn it inside out and shape it with an iron.

* Pre-fold the part to be sewn onto the "Body" 1cm (0.5in) in advance so that it can be sandwiched.

(5) Make buttonholes at the buttonhole positions of the "Sleeve".

How to make buttonholes

(6) Sew the "Sleeve" hem together. Press open the seam allowance with an iron.

* It's easier to thread the string through in advance because there is no lining later.

(7) Sew the lower part of the "Sleeve" side together. Press open the seam allowance with an iron, and sew it to the "Body".

* The basic shape is completed here.

* From here, there are two methods: one is to sew the right side and lining together while pulling out from the gap and shaping with an iron, and the other is to shape with an iron by pre-folding 1cm (0.5in) and then stitch with topstitch.

* The recommended production method is to pre-fold 1cm (0.5in) and then sew while pulling out from the gap.

* With this method, ironing after sewing by pulling out from the gap becomes much easier.

* If there is still a floating feeling, please sew around the perimeter with topstitch.

(8) Temporarily sew the "Around the neck" part with a 5mm seam allowance (S/A), then sew the "Body" to the "Collar" while sandwiching it.

* Please make incisions at the corners of the "Around the neck" part before sandwiching them.

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